Choosing a Marquise Cut Diamond
A marquise diamond is a fancy brilliant shape, and its beauty depends on more than the traditional carat, colour and clarity grades.
Unlike a round brilliant diamond, marquise and other fancy-shaped diamonds do not currently receive an overall GIA cut grade. When comparing marquise diamonds, it is therefore useful to consider the actual proportions, measurements, polish, symmetry, outline and face-up appearance of each stone.
Two marquise diamonds of the same carat weight can have noticeably different lengths and widths. Looking at the physical dimensions alongside the grading report provides a better indication of how the diamond will actually appear once set into a ring.
Marquise Diamond Length-to-Width Ratio
Length-to-width ratio compares the diamond’s point-to-point length with its width across the centre, or belly, of the stone.
Marquise diamonds are available in a broad range of proportions. A ratio of around 2:1 creates the classic elongated marquise outline, although somewhat shorter or longer diamonds may be preferred depending on personal taste.
There is no reason to select a diamond simply because it reaches one particular ratio. The complete outline matters. A shorter marquise creates a fuller appearance, while a longer stone produces a slimmer silhouette.
We recommend considering length-to-width ratio together with the diamond’s actual millimetre dimensions, symmetry and appearance on the hand.
Symmetry, Wings and Points in a Marquise Diamond
Symmetry is particularly important in a marquise because its elongated outline makes differences between the two sides relatively easy to see.
The curved sections extending from the centre of the diamond towards each point are known as the wings. Ideally, these should create a balanced outline rather than appearing noticeably flat, uneven or excessively rounded.
Both pointed ends should also align with the centre of the diamond. A well-proportioned marquise should look balanced from one end to the other when viewed face-up.
The pointed ends are also among the more vulnerable areas of a marquise diamond. A thoughtfully designed setting should protect these points while preserving the distinctive outline of the stone.
What Is the Bow-Tie Effect in a Marquise Diamond?
Many marquise diamonds display an area of contrasting darkness across the centre known as the bow-tie effect.
Some degree of light and dark contrast is normal in an elongated brilliant-cut diamond. A subtle bow-tie can form part of an attractive light pattern, while an unusually dark or dominant bow-tie can distract from the diamond’s brilliance.
The strength of the effect is difficult to determine from carat, colour and clarity grades alone. For this reason, assessing the individual diamond face-up is particularly useful when choosing a marquise.
Bow-tie effects can also occur in other elongated brilliant shapes, including Oval Diamond Rings and Pear Diamond Rings.
Marquise Cut Diamond Ring Settings
The elongated shape allows a marquise diamond to create very different ring styles depending on how it is set.
A Solitaire Diamond Ring leaves the complete outline visible and keeps attention on the centre diamond. A Solitaire Accent Diamond Ring adds brilliance through the band while maintaining the marquise as the primary feature.
A Halo Diamond Ring can follow the elongated outline and extend the visible diamond area around the centre stone, while a Vintage Diamond Ring can combine the marquise shape with engraving, milgrain or more detailed metalwork.
Most marquise engagement rings position the diamond lengthways along the finger, often called a north-south orientation. For something less traditional, the diamond can also be set horizontally across the finger in an east-west design.
Marquise vs Oval and Pear Shaped Diamonds
Marquise, oval and pear diamonds are all elongated brilliant shapes, but each creates a noticeably different outline.
An Oval Diamond Ring has rounded ends and a softer, symmetrical silhouette. A Pear Diamond Ring combines one rounded end with a single point.
A marquise has two pointed ends, giving it the most pronounced length and a particularly distinctive symmetrical shape. Comparing the three is useful if you want an elongated diamond but are unsure which outline you prefer.
Natural or Lab-Grown Marquise Diamonds
Polished Diamonds can source both natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds in marquise shapes.
Both can be compared using carat weight, colour, clarity, measurements, polish and symmetry together with the visual proportions and bow-tie appearance of the individual diamond.
Your choice between natural and lab-grown can therefore be based on preferences around origin, rarity, diamond size, specifications and budget.
Custom Marquise Cut Diamond Rings Made in New Zealand
A marquise diamond benefits from a setting designed around the measurements and outline of the actual stone, particularly because of its elongated proportions and pointed ends.
Through our Design Your Own Diamond Ring service, Polished Diamonds can incorporate the precise measurements of your chosen marquise diamond into a detailed CAD model.
Our jewellery designers can refine claw placement around the points, band width, setting height, halo dimensions, diamond orientation, side profile and wedding-ring clearance before manufacture. Detailed CAD renders allow you to review these proportions before your ring is made.
Once approved, your marquise diamond ring is crafted through our dedicated New Zealand jewellery workshop and finished by our jewellery team.
Visit Polished Diamonds in Auckland, Wellington or Christchurch to compare marquise diamonds and ring designs in person, or work with our team remotely from anywhere in New Zealand.
