Choosing a Princess Cut Diamond
Princess cuts are classed as fancy-shape diamonds, so a GIA grading report does not currently provide the same overall cut grade used for a standard round brilliant. This makes visual assessment and the diamond’s individual proportions especially important. Compare the length and width measurements, symmetry, polish and face-up appearance rather than relying on carat weight alone.
For a distinctly square princess cut, look for a balanced outline close to a 1:1 length-to-width ratio. GIA notes that a square princess cut does not exceed approximately 1.05:1. Also check that the facet pattern and outline appear balanced across both axes. Two princess diamonds with the same carat weight and colour/clarity grades can still look noticeably different face-up.
Protecting the Corners and Choosing a Setting
The four pointed corners are part of the princess cut’s distinctive appearance, but they also need protection. A well-designed setting should secure those corners with suitable claws, split claws, V-shaped prongs or another protective structure rather than leaving the points unnecessarily exposed.
A solitaire can emphasise the square outline, while a halo can extend the geometric shape and a trilogy setting can create a broader composition. Consider claw placement, setting height, and wedding-ring clearance based on the centre diamond’s actual dimensions.
Princess Cut vs Other Square Diamond Shapes
A princess cut should not be confused with every square-looking diamond. An Asscher cut uses step facets and produces broader flashes of light with a more open pattern. A radiant cut uses brilliant-style faceting but has cropped corners, giving it a different outline and setting requirement.
If you want crisp square corners combined with brilliant-style sparkle, the princess cut is the clearest expression of that combination.
Custom Princess Cut Diamond Rings Made in New Zealand
Princess cut diamonds are available in both natural diamonds and lab-grown diamonds. Once a diamond is selected, Polished Diamonds can use its actual measurements in the CAD model so the corner protection, claw position, setting proportions, band width and overall profile are developed around that individual stone.
Choose an existing design to personalise or design your own diamond ring with our team. Your ring is then crafted through our New Zealand workshop, with design studios in Auckland, Wellington and Christchurch for clients who want to compare diamonds and settings in person.
